Taiwan Aboriginal Garments

Taiwan’s original inhabitants are frequently known as Formosan Aborigines, a name derived from the island’s old name, Formosa. Theorists believe that they have lived there for at least 8,000 years.

During the last ice age, the sea separating the Asian mainland and nearby islands like Taiwan became very shallow and relatively easy to cross by small boats or perhaps even by walking across.
 

Over time, there came to be 16 recognized tribes (and 12 not recognized), the most prominent being the Paiwan, the Rukai, and the Atayal.  They share linguistic commonalities not only with each other but also with the Philippines, Borneo, the outer Indonesian islands, Madagascar to the west and Hawaii and other Polynesian islands to the east. Their sea journey began some 4,000 years ago as local island hopping and progressed to giant outriggers able to explore the vast Pacific, with the  last discovery being New Zealand around the 12th Century; one of the greatest diasporas the world has ever known, the Austronesian Expansion is theorized to have  all began in Taiwan and the present day Formosan Aboriginal tribes are thought to be the Austronesians that stayed behind.

Ethnic Han from the Chinese mainland have colonized the island since the 17th Century, progressively displacing the indigenous population from the more desirable coast towards the more inaccessible highlands. That remoteness helped preserve culture, as well as a fierce reputation for headhunting. The Japanese took Formosa as a trophy of war from the Chinese in 1895 and held it as a colony until 1945.

All the textiles featured in this collection date to this pre-War period, with most coming out of old Japanese collections. Thankfully, there were Japanese artists and professors of the colonial period who recognized the importance of documenting the material culture of the indigenous tribes of Formosa as part of the Mingei Movement, a philosophy that evolved in the 1920s with the intent to preserve traditional handicraft, including weaving.

These garments are all exceptional examples, inclusive of a supremely important Lukkus-Pinotan Headhunter’s Costume from the Atayal tribe, featuring thousands of hand drilled shell disk beads; Paiwan jackets display ancestors dancing with trophy heads using heirloom beads; and some exceedingly rare Yami textiles with a simple appearance but upon closer examination show very complex woven structures.

Together this collection, sold only as a whole, convey visual information about the culture and lifeway of an ancient people who made very beautiful textiles.

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Transformation Masks

It has been fashionable of late to access the merits of tribal art in a decontextualized manner. We often use a language of connoisseurship to assign aesthetic value to a ritual object now defined as a work of art.

This, despite the fact that when it was created such criterion may never have been remotely considered. Instead, indigenous ideals of beauty based on ancestral traditions and iconic efficacy would have been more important.

To this end, an art brut mask may be more effective in ceremonies than a conventionally pretty mask and therefore be handed down for more generations and develop a deep patina as a result.

It is one of the great aspects, for example of masks of Nepal’s Middle Hills, that they can with their often tough chaotic visage turn our sense of aesthetics upside down. This is a good thing; we need that!

The decontextualized approach mentioned above has extended our appreciation of tribal art in the sense that it has brought much of it into the mainstream, but thankfully the animistic masks of Tribal Asia still have not been codified. We have the chance to bring our own taste to a discussion where there are no wrong answers.

This exhibition took place at the entrance of the San Francisco Tribal Art Fair at Fort Mason Festival Pavilion.

We present here a sampling of masks from the Himalayas and Indonesia that was presented along with contemporary works from the “Shamanic Mask Series” by sculptor Mort Golub that shared common themes of animism and transformation.

HALI Fair 2022 Exhibition

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Combs Exhibition

Combs are an important aspect of headdress all over the world. As sculpture, they are signifiers of ethnicity, class, battle prowess, marriage status, and other social and religious cues. Great care is taken in their creation.

We have before us a sample of comb styles, ranging from the Solomon Island off of east New Guinea, through the Indonesian archipelago west to Lampung, in the south of Sumatra, and up to the Paiwan people of Taiwan and completing the journey in China. Note the similarities and differences. Comb motifs include serpents, birds, boats, trees, ancestors, and geometric repeats that may represent ancestral genealogies. The custom of wearing a comb is one of the earliest and most widespread of all human endeavors, a truly universal cultural expression.

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